Why I Customize

Around 10-12 years into my private skin care practice, I made a big change. I was reviewing my menu and preparing for some updates. Wow, I had amassed a long list of services. I mean A LONG LIST of services. Short, long, indulgent, no frills, deep cleansing, sensitive, anti-aging, specialty, and on and on and on....... 

It suddenly became very clear just how confusing this must be for a client. How could a client figure out what they needed from a service menu? 

The answer was simple–they shouldn't have to. 

Someone coming in should get expert advice and a recommendation of what would be best for their skin, not randomly pick from a list. 

I changed my menu and made all of my treatments customized, personalized and ever-changing based on individual needs. With the exception of series-based protocols, I now only have 2 options when deciding on a facial. When new clients book, I can almost hear the sigh of relief when I tell them they don’t have to choose a service. Instead, we design something after a thorough written and verbal consult. 

What I've found since then is a lack of potential problems. For the client, no more stress trying to select what's best, or worrying about the treatment price. (I've heard many a story about experiences where the initial price sky-rocketed at checkout due to "add-ons" the client didn't feel comfortable saying no to.) For the skin therapist, it ends the problem of having to (gently) steer a client away from a treatment that is really not made for his/her skin. 

Most importantly, it makes the treatments more effective, and a lot more fun for both parties! For me, custom-blending and using various forms of technology keeps things interesting and keeps me in the moment, designing the best treatment for your skin, that day. This transfers over to your product selections for home as well. One protocol does not fit all! As always, use your skin therapist as a resource, discuss skin concerns (and budget!) to make the most of your treatment time and home care routine.

5 Things To Do For Your Skin In 2016

Happy New Year everyone! Here are 5 ways to ensure your best skin as we move into 2016! I look forward to seeing you all in January....

1. Out with the old.
Take a look in the bathroom cabinet. Yes, it's time to toss all that expired product and anything you haven't used this year. Say goodbye to the old, discolored, unreadable jars and tubes. If you haven't used it, didn't like it, or didn't see results, it's time for it to go. While you're at it, toss the old makeup sponges and applicators, and wash all your brushes.

2. In with the new.
So now that there is space in your cabinet, maybe it's time to try something new! Is there something you're missing in your routine, or something you want to address? With so many great ingredients out there, adding in or replacing just one piece can be a game changer.

3. See your skin therapist.
Lost after #1 and #2? The new year is a perfect time to check in. Your skin therapist can help you decide what to keep and what to tweak in your current routine. Travel, diet, and lifestyle over the holidays take a real toll on your skin, so it's a perfect time for a facial too.

4. Commit to your routine.
The key word here is "your". For something to work, you have to do it. Really assess what you have time, budget and are willing to do on a daily basis. For some, it may be a completely new protocol, for others it may just be the commitment to wash their face every single night, no matter what. Baby steps are still steps!

5. Wear sunscreen.
Oh I know, you grow weary of my pleas. Think of it this way. We know UV causes free-radical damage in the skin. The skin does it's best with its own resources to battle this. By wearing sunscreen every day, you free up those resources to do a myriad of other things instead. Not to mention the bonus of skin cancer prevention and whole lot less premature aging.

As always, don't hesitate to contact me if I can help you or answer questions in 2016!

jill@jjodar.com

Ingredient Spotlight! Niacinamide

I recently posted an article from New Beauty on Facebook and Twitter, which was titled "The Miracle Skin Care Vitamin You're Probably Not Using". I thought, hey, my clients have been using products utilizing this ingredient for well over a year. But just in case you haven't heard of it.....

Image credit: Bookofchemistry.blogspot.com

Niacinamide 

What is it? A physiologically active form of Vitamin B3 used in skin care formulations. You can find it in serums, moisturizers, masks and professional treatments.

Claims: There are a lot of skin care claims made for this multifunctional ingredient. Niacinamide is said to help the skin repair itself and maintain its barrier, reduce the appearance of pigmentation (when used in certain percentages), regulate sebum (oil) production, and possess both antioxidant and calming properties. Yes, That's a lot!

Concerns raised: Wait for it....  None!
I can't find any (not even from a certain website, which I won't give press to this time around)! This is a very good thing, most ingredients have at least a caveat or two.

What I've found: There's a decent amount of research out there on this ingredient, including a study on safety, one on the ability to inhibit melanin transfer (lessen the appearance of pigmentation or dark spots), and another showing a range of anti-aging benefits.

Bottom Line: I absolutely love this ingredient and suggest it both in formulations and use it in my treatments as well. Aside from the scientific literature, I've seen a noticeable change in the skin of clients using products with niacinamide. Perhaps more importantly, so have they! Its multidimensional benefits, combined with the range of skin types that can use it make it a hero in my book.

Find it in: Total Age Corrector, Clarifier, Refiner, Redensifier, Eye serum, Rapid Repair

Happy Anniversary To The Dermis!

I can't believe it has been just over one year since I started The Dermis! This experience has been very rewarding, as well as challenging for me. Finding time to research and write posts while still working with clients and running my shop has been a test! But then I went back and read my introductory post about why I decided to start The Dermis, all of it still rings true.

One small change I'll be making in the coming year is linking to some of my recommendations when applicable. While I've really tried to deliver non-brand specific information, the feedback I've received from clients has been to include more info on what I personally like and carry when appropriate.  I'll be doing this in the least disruptive way possible, discreet links for those of you who want to be taken to my shop, or to a specific product description. I've also looked at which types of posts seem to resonate the most with you, and will gear upcoming content in that direction.

Finally, thanks to everyone who asked questions, gave feedback, and yes, found my typos. (I have no doubt I will be generous with many more in the year to come.)  Onward!

Now here's the first goofy video I made about hand cream back in the Fall of 2014, it's one of my most popular posts! :)

Cleansing Q&A!

I've been getting a lot of cleansing related questions lately so I thought I'd group them all in one post. There are always exceptions and caveats of course, but this can serve as round-up of some of the more common questions.

How many times a day should I wash my face?

• As a general rule, morning and evening.
• If you're working up a sweat, or doing some Bikram yoga in between, then add in a post-sweat (gentle) cleanse.
• Always wash with a skin type appropriate cleanser. Too much cleansing, or using a cleanser with harsh surfactants (see what to avoid below), can damage the barrier, dry you out, and contribute to inflammation. This is especially important if you're adding in a post-workout cleanse. 
• Most importantly, evening cleansing is not optional! It is essential to remove the makeup, sunscreen, sweat, oil, dirt and pollutants that accumulate throughout the day. (You know who you are.)

What ingredients should I look for in a face wash?

It's important to cleanse according to skin type and condition. There is no one-product-fits-all solution. Personally, I like to alternate a cleansing lotion or oil in the evening for makeup removal, and a gel cleanser for the shower in the morning. There are a ton of great ingredients and of course they're not all mentioned here. The good news is there are enough options to suit both your skin and you preferences. (In my practice, I currently carry 9 different cleansers to cover all the bases!)

Here's some general recommendations:

• Dry: Cleansing oils, lotions and milks are great for a drier skin or as a pre-cleanse for makeup wearers.

• Acne/Clogged: Look for performance ingredients like salicylic acid (or willow bark) or 4-terpinol (a non-irritating tea-tree extract) to assist with clearing and healing.

• Aging/Mature: Protect skin and keep it supple with ingredients like panthenol,  omega-rich black cumin and black raspberry, and antioxidants.

Which ingredients should I avoid at all costs?

• SLS/SLES: I recommend avoiding Sodium Lauryl and Laureth Sulfates as they have been shown to be irritating, and can damage the skin's barrier. (For those who LOVE their foamy cleansers, there are milder non-sulfate options such as yucca or disodium cocoamphodiacetate.)

• Coconut Oil: Steer clear of coconut oil if you EVER get clogged pores or acne,  it's highly comedogenic. Despite being all the rage right now, it's not for everyone.

• Soap: A lot of people are still using soap. Why avoid it? It's actually more drying and disruptive to the skin's barrier than a lot of the foaming surfactants. On top of that, soap does not rinse cleanly, and can leave a residue that will impede products applied after from penetrating the skin.

Are there any benefits of washing with water alone?

• In a word, no. :)
• By definition, cleansing is a process of removing makeup dirt and oil. You need a cleanser to whisk these away, rinsing with plain water just won't do the trick. 
• There has been a recent boom in "cleansing water" or micellar water, but this is not plain water. In these products, surfactants are suspended in the water to attach to dirt and oil. More of a "cleansing lotion", if you will, that is applied like a toner.

Have a question I didn't answer? Send me an email at jill@jjodar.com or feel free to leave it in the comments section below!